Lessons Learned in Big Surf
Although it was many years ago, the memory is still strong for me: The surf pounded the beach ahead of me. My colleagues had all paddled to shore, seemingly successfully as I couldn’t see them through the height of the waves ahead and now, with Justine’s guidance, it was time for me to make my surf landing. I bided my time, carefully back paddling to avoid the waves taking control of me, making my way closer and closer to the beach. The waves were huge but the key was timing: Many paddles forward, and then a few back. Repeat…
Vargas Island Surfing and Rolling
When I landed on the beach, I assumed everyone had the same success and was flabbergasted to learn that they had all capsized, which surprised me from the experience they all had compared to me. Out of group of seven, I was the only one to stay upright!!
After a windy break and debriefing on the beach, we were all ready to head back out into the gusty conditions once again near Vargas Island. Only this time, things went a bit differently for me…
JF grabbed my kayak as it washed up in the surf, and I shook the salt water out of my ears. I scrambled back, ready to push myself out in another attempt to punch out of the crashing waves. The instructor sat on the bow, yelling so I could hear over the waves, “Don’t stop! Just keep paddling hard! There’s no break for you.”
This was my first ever surfing class and I had my only kayak at the time- a Rumour by Nigel Dennis- narrow, speedy, and twitchy. How could all my classmates have punched out already, while I had tipped over?
“Wow, awesome job! I’ll paddle with you any day!”
I made it on the next try, when a smaller set rolled through. But I decided I was going to explore a kayak that suits surfing better, which in the end bumped up my skills.
Once again in Tofino area, the next year, I tried a Vital 166- slightly wider and way more rocker. In this next course, waiting to punch out again with Patti, the sets were just growing larger and larger, so we stopped waiting for a break and decided to go for it. As we hit large break, I was dumped but rolled up and was on my way once again. Patti was overtaken behind me, and got washed back to the beach. After catching up with me, they flattered me with “Wow, awesome job! I’ll paddle with you any day!” Don’t think I’d have that pat on the back to boost my confidence if I wasn’t in a kayak that was excellent for surfing.
Rebecca kayak surfing in her Vital-166
